Monday, 2 March 2015

vingt: Bonjour, Marseille et Lyon

#20: Marseille and Lyon

France is the European country with the largest number of immigrants - mainly Muslims who hail from its ex-colonies in North Africa. I once read an article in Nat Geo about how Marseille is considered the most unique city in France because it has the highest number of French of various descent. People in Marseille are no fashionistas like the Parisans, rather they are unique in how the population mingle despite the differences in their roots and culture. When I was planning this Europe trip, I did some research on Marseille and apparently safety was a concern. I had wanted to spend two days or so in the city but instead did a one day tour on advice from a friend who visited last Summer.

Indeed, Marseille's port was so different from those that I have seen in Nice, Monaco, Ville-France and I really enjoyed my time in Marseille. The city centre is much bigger than I expected but I mostly walked on foot. While trying to get to Notre Dame, I kinda got lost while walking up the mountain. Usually, I will simply continue my adventures but because of the numerous cautions I receive about how I should be more careful in this city, I aborted my plan and took a bus back to the city centre. The bus driver was kind enough to give me a free ride.


Above: There was a ferris wheel in every of the French city I visited this season. Perhaps it is part of their Christmas market set up.

Marseille port (pictures below)

Below: Notre Dame church at the top of the hill across the port

Waters that lead a ship from the inner port to the Mediterranean waters 

[Below]: I kinda like such touristic trams that bring people around the city. It always give off a feeling of "time-travelling" somehow.

[Below]: I came across one museum that provided free entry. The deco was amazing and it was a nice place to chill out after walking for 2-3 hours in the city. Unfortunately, all exhibits were in French and I could not understand. But I really wish Singapore would have more of such hangout places. We may not have a long history but we are celebrating 50 years of independence this year! 50 years is not long, not even a lifetime but neither is it so short that we have nothing to showcase. Perhaps it is time for me to check out some of the museums in Singapore before I lose my freedom.

My very next stop in France was Lyon. I have heard much about the city while on exchange from my French neighbour and France is a country that I have always loved since young. It is not because of the romance associated with the nation but rather the language and the people's obsession and pride of their own country that attract me. Lyon is famous for a few things - Bouchon restaurants, silk weaving industry, traboules, and murals. It is truly one city that has so much culture to offer and traditions continued from their ancestors. 

On this trip of mine, I came across countless Roman ruins, amphitheatres, etc. and each one of them fascinates me as much as the previous one. It is amazing how good the Roman's engineering skills were back then to be able to build their city in similar fashion everywhere in Europe. 

Ancient Roman city of Lugdunum. 

Below: Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere - Cathedrals are one of the many structures which I have grown pretty sick of after having visited so many during my trips in Europe. However, this particular one still amazes me. Too pretty....

 

Below: When going downhill. This is the longest staircase that I have ever encountered in my entire life (beside the Great Wall of China) - counted close to 1,000 steps. 

Below: Love all these random fountains that I come across in the city. Usually I sit around and people watch. I met a French lady who could speak Chinese while taking a break from all the walking. How interesting! Place de Jacobins (Left), Bartholdi fountain in Place de Terreaux (Right)


The Lyon City Hall. Lyon was much more chilly than Nice and Marseille and I had to seek shelter from the strong winds in the evening in the City Hall. I hanged around the lobby area and picked up a French magazine, trying to recall as many French words as possible. 


Below: Ferris Wheel in action - main square in Lyon - Place Bellecour. Here you find plenty of restaurants, a tourist information centre and Mcdonald's for FREE WIFI! :)



The city is divided by two rivers - Saone and Rhone. I stayed in Vieux-Lyon (old town of Lyon) and everyday I walked miles to cross the Saone River via the various foot bridges to get to the city centre of Lyon. I also walked further down to the Rhone river (much less impressive compared to Saone Rive) which leads one to the business district in Lyon. 

Below: View from the Fourviere Hill. The first river is Saone river. Where you see two tall structures is the area of Lyon after one crosses the Rhone river. Honestly, I find those two tall buildings an eyesore that destroys the beautiful landscape of the city. Oh well, economic growth and development. 
 

Red Foot bridge (think it's called Pont Neuf) right in front of the Palace of Justice, yet another amazing structure. 

 

Isn't this amazing? Palais de Justice!


Mural painting. Painted on the walls. The lady at the tourist information told me there is another one with images of fruits and vegetables but I did not manage to find it. 

Basically, Bouchon are small family owned restaurants and it is unique to Lyon. Lyonnais love meat - pork and beef but unfortunately I am not a big fan of pork. Hence I decided to go for mussels in one of the Buchons. The food was good and the ambience was great. The only problem was the language as usual since they hardly use English.


Traboules are a type of passageway associated with Lyon but they can also be found in some other cities in France. They were originally used by silk manufacturers and other merchants to transport their goods in sheltered conditions. Water could also be delivered from the rivers to the households or factories through the construction of such traboules. I had planned to hunt for these traboules on my second day in Lyon and little did I know that I was staying right in a traboule since I was living in the Old Town. It was when I saw some tourists taking photos inside the building while making my way out to the city on my second morning in Lyon that I realised that I was staying inside one. 



I went to the La Croix Rousse quarter in Lyon on the second day but I was not at a good vantage point to take photos. La Croix Rousse is the quarter heavily marked by the silk industry as Lyon was the centre for silk manufacture in Europe in the olden times. There are still silk manufacturing activities ongoing these days but it has dwindled significantly owing to costs considerations. The La Croix Rousse quarter is characterised by reddish-brown roofs with chimneys. Yeah right, CHIMNEYS! Something that I associate with fairy tales.

On a concluding note, having travelled so much in the last few years, I have not been fascinated by a city for a long long time. I am more inclined towards nature these days. However, Lyon is one city that was mesmerising for me and I strongly recommend any travel enthusiast to visit. The people are also very helpful and you get a different feel from Paris altogether. I feel that people often label the French as snobbish and anti-English my experiences in France speak otherwise. They have been very hospitable towards me in my three visits to five different cities. in the country You cannot fault them for not being willing to communicate with you in English even though they comprehend the language. After all, French is their official language so it does not make sense for them to have to accommodate the tourists and speak English. Try going to South America or Russia and no one will speak a single word of English to you either. Likewise, the French do not go to America or UK and expect people to speak French to them. I guess we are just too used to English being the lingua franca and expect people to be able to understand it.

On my next trip to France, I shall visit Bordeaux and Mont Blanc! Au revoir, La France! 

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